Whether your tastes tend toward the classic pink, purple, or blue blooms of big leaf or mountain hydrangea (H. macrophylla and H. serrata), the giant cones of panicle hydrangea (H. paniculata), the eye-popping orbs and discs of smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens), or the four-season beauty of oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia), here you'll find everything you need to know to pick the right hydrangea for your unique climate - and your taste.
While the South's climate presents lots of opportunities to grow beautiful hydrangeas, it also poses some challenges that you should know before picking and planting a hydrangea.
In your case, your concern about success with hydrangeas isn't so much how much cold they can take, but how much heat and humidity they can tolerate and still earn pride of place in your garden or landscape.
With a little know-how (which we're going to give you here), you'll not only be able to pick the perfect hydrangea for your climate, but care for it like a professional horticulturist.
Click to view details on each type of hydrangea.
Big leaf and mountain hydrangeas are heat tolerant through USDA zone 9. They are cold hardy down to USDA zone 4 or 5, depending on the variety.
Japan and China. Big leaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) occur naturally in coastal areas; mountain hydrangeas (Hydrangea serrata) occur in mountainous regions. These hydrangeas may also be called florist hydrangeas, hortensia, or mophead hydrangeas.
These are the classic plants that come to mind when you think of hydrangeas: large orbs of blue, purple, or pink flowers. Their foliage is thick, dark green, leathery, and usually quite shiny. Their stems are typically spotted but may be red or black, depending on the variety. Flowers may be mophead or lacecap. Blooms on old wood, though reblooming varieties bloom on both old and new wood. Deciduous.
Shade during the hottest part of the day is imperative in hot climates. They can take a bit of morning sun, which will help plants develop strong stems and more abundant, more colorful flowers.
Thrives in all but the hottest Southern climates, growing readily through USDA zone 9.
Southern and Southeastern US, from the Carolinas to Arkansas and South from Louisiana to the Florida panhandle.
Large, conical flowers in early summer that are white with some varieties aging to a nice pink. Oakleaf hydrangea derives its name from its large leaves that resemble those of oak trees. The foliage turns appealing shades of burgundy and red in autumn, making it one of the best hydrangeas for fall color. Peeling bark in winter provides interest even during the off-season. Flowers are generally lacecap, but some mophead types can be found. Blooms on old wood wood. Deciduous.
Oakleaf hydrangeas are very shade tolerant, though deep shade will hinder blooming and fall foliage color. Ideally, plant with a few hours of sun and shade during the hottest part of the day.
Climbing hydrangeas are heat tolerant through USDA zone 9.
Japan and Korea. Though Hydrangea petiolaris is known as "climbing hydrangea," the closely-related Hydrangea hydrangeoides (formerly known as Schizophragma hydrangeaoides) is known as Japanese hydrangea vine.
These two climbing hydrangeas are woody vines that scramble up trees or structures using clinging aerial rootlets. White lacecap flowers appear in late spring/early summer. Blooms on old wood. Deciduous.
As these species grow up trees in their native environments, they are well-suited to shady conditions and look their best under high canopies that let light through to the plant.
Generally speaking, panicle hydrangeas are heat tolerant through USDA zone 8. However, 'Limelight' has proven heat tolerant through USDA zone 9. Testing is ongoing with the other Proven Winners ColorChoice panicle hydrangeas.
Japan, Taiwan, China. Also called hardy hydrangeas, peegee hydrangea, P.G. hydrangea.
Big, conical blooms are reminiscent of ice cream cones or footballs. They start white or green and age to shades of pink, red, and burgundy. Plants come in a range of sizes, from very small (2'/.6m) to 10'/3m+. Very popular for cut flowers, both fresh and dried. Blooms on new wood. Deciduous.
Panicle hydrangeas are the most sun and drought tolerant of all hydrangeas. However, in the South, afternoon shade is recommended for best flowering and the best potential for pink/red color to develop later in the season.
Smooth hydrangeas are heat tolerant through USDA zone 8. They may be able to be grown in cool parts of USDA zone 9 with enough shade and well-drained soil.
This North American native occurs naturally from New York west to Iowa, and from Louisiana east through northern Florida. This hydrangea is also known as wild hydrangea, hills of snow hydrangea, wild seven bark, or 'Annabelle' hydrangea (which refers to the specific variety 'Annabelle', released to the market in the 1960s).
Large, rounded blooms on thin, elegant stems in early summer. Though for years, white was the only option, now pink, mauve, and lime green varieties can be found. In nature, flowers are lacecap but nearly all popular garden varieties are mopheads. Blooms on new wood. Deciduous.
Shade during the hottest part of the day is imperative, though a bit of morning sun or some filtered light will result in bigger blooms, stronger stems, and in the case of the colorful varieties, more vivid color.
Yes, several hydrangeas will grow successfully in USDA zone 9. Generally speaking, this includes big leaf, mountain, climbing, and oakleaf hydrangeas. At present, the variety ‘Limelight’ is the only panicle hydrangea confirmed to perform well in USDA zone 9.
Shade throughout the hottest part of the day in summer is essential for success with hydrangeas in the South. A bit of cooler morning sun is beneficial, encouraging sturdy stems, increased bud count, and better color of both the flowers and foliage.
Some clues that your hydrangea is in too much sun include foliage and/or flowers with brown tips or edges, flowers turning brown quickly after opening, and frequent wilting. If you see your plant wilting, however, don’t immediately run for the hose. For one, on very hot days, big leaf and mountain hydrangeas will lose water from their leaves faster than their roots can take up moisture and replace it. This can indicate that the spot your hydrangea is planted in might be a bit too sunny, but this happens even in cooler climates. If you find that your hydrangea is recovering later in the evening or by the next morning, you can be confident it was simply heat-related wilting. Second, and this is very important: hydrangeas wilt from too much water the same as they do too little water. If your hydrangea is wilting from excessive water and you water it, thinking it needs more, the issue will be exacerbated and the plant very well could die or be severely set back. If you know you are watering frequently and see wilting, check the soil with your fingers, a trowel, or even a bamboo stake or bbq skewer to see what’s really going on before applying more water.
In warmer climates, early spring and fall are the best times to plant hydrangeas.
Yes! Check out our Growing Hydrangeas in Containers page to learn more about planting hydrangeas in pots.
Generally speaking, hydrangeas will bloom much earlier in warmer climates than they do in colder ones. The bloom can be very long-lasting, but it does depend on growing conditions: if your plant experiences stress while it is blooming, the flower lifespan is usually shortened.
The best way to get a hydrangea through a spell of extreme heat is to maintain a good 2-3″ layer of shredded bark mulch, which keeps the roots cool and conserves moisture. The plants may need more water than normal, but do check the soil moisture level before watering – this is especially important in the humid climate of the South, as plants lose less water when the humidity is very high. This keeps more moisture in the soil, despite the high temperatures and sunshine, so checking first avoids potentially fatal overwatering.
The most common reason a hydrangea wouldn’t bloom in the South is the same one as in the North: improperly-timed pruning. This is particularly true for big leaf and mountain hydrangeas, but fortunately, warm climate gardeners rarely experience winter cold as the reason their plant doesn’t bloom. Get the whole story about pruning on our Hydrangeas Demystified page.
Very often, browning foliage indicates drought stress, particularly if it develops on the edge of the foliage. It can also indicate excessive sun, though that usually looks like a yellow, russet, or brown spot in the center of the leaves.
The idea time to transplant a hydrangea is when it is still dormant (i.e., has not yet leafed out) in late winter/early spring. If you live in an area with mild winters, you can also transplant once the plant has gone dormant in late fall or winter. The goal is to dig and move the plant when it won’t experience stress, and to give it the longest possible recovery period before challenging conditions, like summer’s heat and humidity, set in.
For the largest plants at the best price, we always recommend shopping at your local garden center. Even though there has been a huge surge in online retailers of our plants, it is generally cost-prohibitive to ship the large 3 or 5 gallon plants that you can pick up at your local garden center. Buying at a garden center near you is also the best choice for local expertise and guidance. Hundreds of independent garden centers and box stores sell Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs; click here to find a retailer near you.